Coming back strangers

The flight from London to Charlotte is nine hours long. Nine hours is a long time in an economy seat, especially when the person in front of you decides to recline her seat. But that’s nothing compared to the travels of the man sitting next to me. Ben (name changed) was flying from Afghanistan, via Kuwait, Dubai, and London, to Charlotte. What he was doing in Afghanistan I don’t know; he works with our armed forces, but he didn’t say more and I didn’t ask. (He probably couldn’t tell me if I did.) But he did tell me that he had only been home in the States for two weeks in the last two years. And that he has a thirteen-year-old daughter here.

Those of us who have been away for the one semester think we’ll have it rough coming back to our friends and family, for whom life has gone on without us. We have to readjust to driving on the right side of the road; to smiling at people on sidewalks (to saying “sidewalks” instead of “pavements”), and not cycling everywhere. Our friends’ lives have gone on, some have graduated, some have made new friends, and others have just changed. We see things differently, our opinions have changed, and we’ve made new friends. But it’s not anything like what people like Ben experience.

Ben is a quiet guy, but not antisocial. During the flight we talked about travelling, foreign currency, being away, coming home, and the differences between Here and There. This man has been everywhere across the Near and Middle East. Pulling out his billfold, he showed me currency from Taliban Afghanistan, current Afghanistan, old Iraq, new Iraq, Kuwait, United Arab Emirates, and five or ten other random countries. He is something of an amateur collector now; he brings back foreign monies for his daughter.

He talks to me about how different life is in Afghanistan. He’s going to have to reacclimatize to a place of rules. Even things like speed limits and stop signs. We comment on how we take such things for granted. Most Americans can’t even conceive of living without these structures. They are taken as having a real existence. Put an average person in Afghanistan, where the rule of law is not to be counted on, where life is lived much more by the seat of one’s pants, and they’d freeze out of inability to cope. Ben has lived there for at least two years, probably more. If those of us who have lived away for three months think it’s disconcerting coming back to America, Ben must be completely disoriented.

Most relationships are built on day-to-day interactions. Even good friends have little to speak of when they don’t have shared experiences. Coming back, most of us who have been away will have to rebuild relationships, try to fit in with our old friends and find new ones. But we’ve only been away three months, and most of us have FaceBook to keep us connected. Ben has only seen his daughter once in the last two years. The hard thing, for him, is that she doesn’t know anything different, while he knows how much is lost. I can’t imagine how difficult it must be to be around her, without having the shared experience that is the basis of relationships. He’s going back to someone who probably barely knows him, who he barely knows.

We, Ben and myself and many others who are coming back from living in distant lands, are, to different degrees, strangers at home. Even as welcomed as we might be, and if we have jobs or school to reintegrate us into society, and no matter how long we’ve lived in the States before, coming back we are something of outsiders. Some might describe it as being a citizen of the world. Perhaps that is true for a few. For others, it is simply being other, different, again. From being strangers abroad, we become strangers at home.

Penzance, Sans Pirates

Castle across from the town of Penzance

Hegel and I went to the sea
in a beautiful royal blue train.
We forgot to grab the PB&J
wrapped up in a paper towel.
I looked out at the landscape around
and read little Hegel
“O incomprehensible Hegel! O Hegel my nemesis,
what a thick writer you are,
You are,
You are!
what a thick writer you are!”

With apologies to Edward Lear.

Just outside Oxford

This was a pretty heavy week, and since I have a rail pass laying around needing used, I thought it would be the perfect time to take a trip to nowhere in particular just for the joy of riding the train and going to new places. So I picked the end of the line in Cornwall, Penzance. Its as far south west as one can go in England on the train. I left on the 10:00 train from Oxford, changed at Reading, and then it was a straight shot down. The sun came out as we pulled out from Oxford, highlighting the golden greens that make early autumn in England so beautiful. Continue reading

Double-Decker Buses

Just a few observations about vehicles here in the UK:

  • Driving on the “other” side of the road is quite normal, actually.
  • Almost being run over by a bus is a most exhilarating experience.
  • That most of those buses would be double-deckers was actually something of a surprise to me. I thought the double-decker buses were things of the past, only around as tourist buses. But no, most of the buses in London are modern double-deckers, and there are more than a couple in city service around Oxford. Plus most of the long distance coaches have two levels.
  • You WILL see the police car or ambulance coming. They are painted bright, reflective, fluorescent greenish yellow, and often have reflective blue and red patterns. The back of some utility maintenance vehicles are covered with a fluorescent chevron pattern as well. Obnoxious but obvious. Slightly out of place in a city with buildings ranging over 800 years old.
  • Cycles are vehicles too, but can go farther. They also break down, just like cars. Fortunately, they’re also pretty easy to fix.
  • Most trucks have flat noses. I have no idea why. But coming from the States, where trucks usually have the engine in front of the cab, it’s a bit weird.
  • Cars follow the traffic lights, and will run you over if you are in the way. Although they are more likely to stop than people in say, Italy, they are less likely to be friendly to someone who steps out into the street out of turn.

Journey to the Emerald Isle

Journey through Ireland

Last week we had a four day break. This is the only break in the entire semester, as the normal Oxford term, which starts this week, is eight weeks long and has no breaks. Some friends and I decided to cross the Irish Sea. Continue reading

Oxford by the numbers

In lieu of a narrative about last week, since I seem to have been preoccupied…

In the first 4 weeks in Oxford:

  • 3675 miles from home
  • 5 airports to get here
  • 37 people living in the Vines
  • 8 people in my dinner group “family”
  • 1 incredible bicycle still here
  • 3 cycles stolen from the Vines last week (they weren’t tied up)
  • 0 desire to go home
  • 3 papers done
  • 1st paper:
    • 1883 words
    • 6 Pages
    • 7 Sources
    • 137 word grader’s response
  • 2nd paper:
    • 2048 words
    • 7 pages
    • 1 picture
    • 15 sources
  • 3rd paper:
    • 2248 words
    • 7 pages
    • 1 picture
    • 5 sources
  • Last night: 5 hours of sleep
  • Tonight, projected: 5.5 hours of sleep
  • Tomorrow morning’s ferry to Ireland: 3 hours
  • 6 days until we start again

Kings, Vines, and Papers

Taken from the tower of St. Mary Mag's in Oxford - we were actually out on the lead roof, though within the walls at the top. Best view of town.

This was the second full week in Oxford. Just enough to feel like all the people moving into Oxford Brookes University seem like outsiders. You ride though their cars and around people carrying their belongings into their apartments and feel like a native. Well, sort of. And no Oxfordian would let you really think that for long…

(Note… Oxford Brookes University is NOT Oxford University – it was established in 1992 (though based in a previous school), and is on the outskirts of the city of Oxford. We cycle through some of their housing to get down the hill to Oxford.)

Cycling is still great – the weather hasn’t turned bad yet, though the seats need some padding, in my opinion. Either that or I need to stop racing down the hill and hitting all the speed bumps at full speed. I’ve gotten so I can get to Wycliffe Hall in 10 minutes – helpful when rolling out of bed late and having to wait for the shower. (Ah, the wonders of living in a house with 36 people… A friend just brought up a warm, fresh, chocolate chunk cookie… yum yum… anyways,) I’ve made a map showing some of the important places around town, as well as the locations of the field trips.

Most of the week was spent watching Simon Schama, taking in lectures, for the rest of the time, reading, writing, reading, writing. I can’t say my paper was great… we’ll see when it comes back. But I think I have a much better handle on how to go about the next two papers, both of which are due next week. So this week will be another one of reading and writing, on top of a couple lectures and History Seminar.

Hampton Court Palace Gardens

Last Thursday we went to Hampton Court, a royal palace with a “living history” component: Through the day a drama unfolded in which King Henry VIII was setting about trying one of his wives (which one I remember not…) for heresy. The guard at the entrance advised us all to only say “I believe what the King believes,” lest the Lord Chancellor have our heads. Early in the morning, a group of school children crossed paths with the king, and at one point one of them must have used “Jesus” as an exclamation, for he got a very stern talking to about using the Lord’s name in vain. And the accompanying teacher was told to make sure they learned this. Afterwards, one kid asked “Are you going to kill us?” Continue reading

1830 Words to Go

“Oxford, where your best isn’t good enough.” So says a former SCIO student, and apparently the slogan has gotten a good following with other students at the university. That is what’s hanging over our heads as we work at trying to form even basic sentences on the way to the first deadline of the term: This Thursday, midnight. I have about 200 words down, out of the required 2000.

That this week started with orientation is hard to believe. But lectures on house and university life have morphed into lectures on British history. Some of these were presented through a BBC/History Chanel series by Simon Schama. I’m not quite sure how I feel about coming all the way to Oxford to watch a video series, but the videos are themselves quite informative, though sadly visually theatrical – at some points you think that it is an experimental new age film, not a documentary put together by two large broadcasting companies.

Stonehenge

Thursday we went to Stonehenge. A bit smaller than I expected, and quite smelly from the animal pastures surrounding it. Our guide, Simon, showed us the aspects of the area that we highlighted in lecture. Particularly interesting is that they (the constant third-person who guides all knowledge) believe that the Stonehenge was placed in this field because of the geography/geology of the place: there are, now buried, six or so natural ridges that line up perfectly with the sunset of the winter solstice, if I understand correctly. It must have seemed, then, 4ooo or more years ago perhaps, that the location was intrinsically important. Additionally, Stonehenge is not the only place of spiritual significance to ancient peoples in the area – there are several other ancient formations nearby.

Salisbury Cathedral

Salisbury Cathedral

Later in the day we drove to nearby Old Sarum, which is an old, old fortification mound, existing before William the Conqueror set up administration there following the invasion of 1066, and used by various kings and would-be kings following him. We also went to Salisbury Cathedral, which is one of my favorite cathedrals, and where we climbed almost to the top of the spire. The baptismal font is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen – modern and clean yet fitting perfectly with the historic stone building.
Saturday I went to London, with Simon, again, and forgot my camera. So there are no pictures, but it was quite the city. In many places it is more modern than Rome felt, with glass skyscrapers rising in every direction around the city center. Yet many of the streets date from medieval times, so navigation is not the simplest thing. We saw the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, walked past Big Ben, looked over the walls of the Tower of London, crossed the Millennium Bridge, climbed the monument commemorating the Fire of London, and attended Evensong at St. Paul’s (not necessarily in that order.)

Salisbury Cathedral

So now, I need to grab a quick breakfast before heading off for class and then the library. Cheers!

Sunday in Oxford

I pulled out the camera this evening. If I didn’t today, I might not all semester. So there are pictures in this post!

I actually got up at a “normal” time this morning, something we have to get back into the habit of, after the time shift. Went with a sizable crew to St. Mary Magdalen’s  for the morning service. This church is considered Anglo-Catholic, which means it pays strong attention to liturgy and sacramental life of the Church. One of the many points of Rector Peter made was about how the architecture of a church greatly reflects the theology and view of the Church held by that church. (Theology + Architecture) * Oxford = Awesome.

Afterward, we went out with a crowd from the church. Met a few people who had started out in the States, including one lady who was born in the Pittsburgh area.

Tying up all our bikes so we can go to Evensong

In the afternoon we headed back to the Vines for a couple hours, and then walked back down to Wycliffe Hall for afternoon tea – and playing “Snooker” – a type of billiard ball that is very “sophisticated,” we decided. Basically it is more complex than common American pool, with different sized balls.

Christ Church Cathedral

Following this social event designed to allow SCIOers from both housing locations to mix, we divided up to go to various locations for the evening. My group went to Christ Church College’s Cathedral for Evensong. After that we headed back up the street to the blessing ceremony of  St. Giles’ Fair. This blessing ceremony was held under the blinking lights of a fair ride, with a carnival organ providing music for hymns, along with a Salvation Army band.

St. Giles' Fair, Oxford

It was quite fun riding through Oxford today, though we do need to get lights for the future – they should be provided by our bike guy, but most of us haven’t gotten them yet.